Tuesday 24 March 2009

Saturday 21 March 2009

AFA - St Patrick's Day Weekend in Dublin (aka Baile Átha Cliath)

Dublin is the capital and largest city of the Republic of Ireland, not to be confused with that other country, Northern Ireland, which remains a part of the United Kingdom. The name Dublin comes from the combining of the old Irish words "dubh" (meaning black) and "linn" (meaning pool) because the river Liffey and another smaller one met there forming a black pool. Those that didn't know the language combined the two dropping the 'h' and extra 'n' to make the name Dublin. The preferred name in modern Irish is 'Baile Atha Cliath' ('The Settlement of the Ford of the Reed Hurdles') (there's a song title for you) - no clue how one might go about pronouncing it, but that is the name on some of the publc buildings and their license plates as you can see below.

The city is a very successful, modern, commercial centre, and one of the fastest growing areas in Europe. It is a very youth oriented, social, and expensive. It was the 2007 Friendliest City in the World. I'm told it is a destination of choice for a weekend of partying for college age kids.We certainly saw a ton of them there this weekend.
You can see evidence of some of that partying in this picture ... look closely

Touring the city is a stroll through a turbulent history, and unlike most of the rest of the places we have visited, this is very recent. There are statues all over town of Irish revolutionaries, most of whom died there in the last 100 years. One of the most popular tourist attractions is the Kilmainham Gaol (jail) where the leaders were imprisoned. We took that tour, and the cells still have their names on the doors. Interestingly, the very last prisoner there before they closed it was the man that became the first president of the Republic of Ireland in the 1920s, Eamon de Valera.

But the lasting impression of Ireland will be their jolly disposition. Maybe it is the drinking, but they certainly are witty.
Some examples ...

This 360 foot tower called "The Millennium Spire", built in 2003, is the world's tallest sculpture. The locals call it either "the Nail in the Pale" or the "Stiletto in the Ghetto." ("pale" refers to when the UK governed the northern part of Ireland down to Dublin, and called it 'the Pale') (plus it rhymed)
Interesting note: They built it in the exact spot where once stood a 100+ foot statue of the British war hero Admiral Nelson, very similar to the one in Trafalgar Square in London. The IRA blew it up in the 60's.


In a town known for drinking, it is hilarious that there would be a "Liver Assurance" company - which happened to be right beside a pub. Dublin is the home of Guinness, a very popular beer brand worldwide and the #1 most popular in Ireland. At one time Guinness was the leading employer in town - the founder, Arthur Guinness, is a local hero, donated much to the city, and his stature is in the garden at St Patrick's cathedral. Tours of the brewery are very popular and include samples, somehow we missed that one. There are about 1,000,000 people in Dublin, and they consume an average of 2,000,000 pints of beer per day. (Hence the need for Liver Assurance.)


I don't know what Oscar Wilde looked like, but I do know what Hugh Grant looks like. They think this is a statue of Oscar Wilde. Dublin has some wonderful statues of people all over town, but this was the coolest.


This skinny doorway leads to the smallest pub in Ireland, it will hold 20 - standing.


This is a statue of Molly McGuire. Also known locally as, 'The Dish with the Fish', or the 'Tart with the Cart.' Molly sold fish during the day and was said to be a 'sparkling conversationalist' at night.


This is the Bank of Ireland When they built the building there was a tax on window glass, so as you can see, they didn't use any. The Irish say when you put your money in the Bank of Ireland, it never sees the light of day again. (get it??)


The Dublin band U2 is one of the most popular bands in the world. The lead singer Bono and guitar player Edge co-own this hotel. The green top floor is a luxury penthouse where they stay when in town. The story goes that Larry Mullen, the drummer, decided to start a band in middle school right here in Dublin, and posted a notice at school for guys to join him. The other three guys showed up and the rest is history.


You'll only appreciate this if you have been to the Vatican Museum, but this is a smaller, but otherwise exact replica, of a statue in the courtyard of the Vatican Museum. Very cool sculpture.

St Patrick
St Patrick is the patron saint of Ireland and is revered for bringing Christianity to Ireland. He was Welsh and sent to Ireland as a missionary. Unlike other missionaries of his time, he didn't accept support from the rich royalty but lived the life of the common man and was accepted because of it. Not a lot is known about him, not even exactly when he lived, but they estimate it as about the 5th century. The two legends that persist about him are that he taught about the Father, Son and Holy Ghost by using the three leaf clover, or shamrock, to make his point - and
that he 'drove the snakes out of Ireland'. Scientists suggest that there were never any snakes in Ireland. Historians suggest that when they said 'snakes', they might have meant 'Druids'. (you can see how they might have been confused, they sound so much alike) Actually, the Druids used the serpent as a symbol in their rituals - so maybe that really was it. This is a picture of the St Patrick's cathedral, and the fountain in the garden marking the spot where St Patrick did baptisms. We never got inside to look around, both times we came by they were using it for religious services. Imagine that!



Happily, the teacher's workday at ACS coincided with St Patrick's Day weekend, so we were actually there for the celebration. They say the 4-day celebration in Dublin is the SECOND largest St Paddy's Day celebration in the world - behind only New York City. (more Irish here, more thirsty Irish pretenders there) They had parades, carnivals, fire works, shamrocks everywhere, people wearing green paraphernalia, McDonald's sold green milkshakes (but were sold out when we went), and live music in the streets - if I can get it to upload on our lame internet connection, I have video of one of the bands. I loved getting to hear the band, and seeing the Irish dancing. (look ma, no hands!)